In the world of luxury design, the mastery of technique and the art of storytelling converge in a profound way. For Hélène and Jeanne Karpov, a dynamic sister duo whose shared passion for gouaché painting has defined their careers, the art of jewellery illustration is more than simply a profession; it’s a living tradition — one that draws on centuries of craftsmanship and requires deep personal devotion.
The Karpov twins, who are known as ‘gouachers’ — a term they proudly adopt from their native France — have found their calling at the intersection of high jewellery and fine watchmaking. Through their unique and complementary skill sets, they have created exquisite pieces for some of the most prestigious luxury houses in the world, while also preserving and advancing a rare artistic technique that holds a connective power.
Their work is an intricate dance between design and artistry — a delicate balance that requires both precision and imagination. At the core of their creative process is their ability to envision an item of jewellery — from its proportions and volumes to the materials and stones that bring it to life.
In one respect, this involves rigorous research and design, considering every detail that will ultimately define the essence of a piece. The other aspect sees the sisters focus on what can only be described as a meticulous visual representation — creating hand-painted illustrations using gouaché that serve not only as technical references, but as art in their own right. “It’s a process of research and balance, blending creativity, technical expertise, and aesthetics,” Jeanne reflects. “We produce what are called ‘jewellery gouachés’: hand-painted illustrations, at actual size, on gray paper using gouaché (an opaque watercolor pigment paint). These precise renderings serve as technical references for jewellery workshops, visual presentations for clients, and sometimes, even as standalone works of art.”
“…hand-painted illustrations, at actual size, on gray paper using gouaché. These precise renderings serve as technical references for jewellery workshops, visual presentations for clients, and sometimes, even as standalone works of art.”
These drawings, which can take from a few days to a month to complete, are often comissioned by jewellery houses to translate their creative vision into an irresistibly compelling image. “They provide us with a detailed brief: a list of materials, metal textures, and volumes,” they tell me. “When possible, we also observe the gemstones, finished pieces, or prototypes in person — to capture every reflection, every subtle hue, every unique detail. Sometimes, we work from photos of completed pieces, which we must reinterpret with precision.” This artistic gesture demands discipline, finesse, and sensitivity. It’s not just about reproduction, but about conveying the soul of a jewel — something the sisters have become completely adept at over their careers, “Creating a gouaché requires varying amounts of time, but if a gouaché can be completed in just one day today, it is thanks to twenty years of experience. Speed is not the norm; it’s the result of long-acquired expertise.”
Their journey into the world of gouaché began in childhood, where they were both encouraged by their father to draw and replicate, exploring the impact of art, while their mother nurtured their exposure to broader artistic realms like architecture, theatre, and ballet. “These worlds deeply inspired and awakened us,” they share, a sentiment that has clearly carried throughout their lives.
Having initially pursued industrial design, Hélène and Jeanne quickly found themselves at odds with the overwhelming presence of computers and digital tools in the field. Their yearning for a more tactile, hands-on approach led them to explore areas where manual skills were still revered — and it was during an exhibition in Paris that they discovered jewellery design. “It was a revelation,” Hélène says. “From that moment on, everything relied on hard work, discipline, and perseverance.”
The world of gouaché painting, particularly in the realm of jewellery and watchmaking, is one that requires years of dedication and refinement. “It’s much like calligraphy… or classical dance,” they say. “You’re not born a prima ballerina — you become one.” And so, they became masters of gouaché — a skill that is both a visual language and a lifelong pursuit of technical and artistic excellence.
“We each have our areas of expertise,” says Jeanne. “When we work for jewellery or watchmaking houses, Hélène focuses on the design phase — creating the piece, balancing volumes, choosing stones — while I am dedicated to creating the gouachés.” “It’s a real advantage to work with your twin sister,” Hélène adds. “There’s a fluidity and absolute trust that’s been essential to building our careers.” The pair also run and online platform, The Art of the Gouache, teaching others how to master the art — further preserving their craft for the future.
Across the spectrum, their work is not merely about producing beautiful designs; it’s about safeguarding and advancing the slow art of gouaché in a world that increasingly leans on digital tools. “Gouaché painting is an art deeply rooted in the real, one that reconnects us to slowness, patience, and the present moment,” Jeanne explains. “It’s tangible: every gesture leaves an immediate, visible mark. You see the results layer by layer. In a world that moves fast, painting in gouaché becomes almost a gentle form of resistance.”
The act of creating with gouaché is both a meditative and an intellectual challenge. For Hélène and Jeanne, it is the constant desire to improve and refine their technique that drives them forward. “Each gouaché is a pursuit of excellence,” they share. “Gouaché teaches you to see: to observe materials, to appreciate the beauty of the real and the authentic.”
In a world where creativity is often rushed, Hélène and Jeanne’s work remains a powerful testament to the beauty of slow artistry. It is a celebration of patience, precision, and the irreplaceable value of human touch — an art that will continue to inspire awe for generations to come.
